Moisturizing could be the most common efficacy claim in cosmetics efficacy claims. According to Specifications for Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation, cosmetics with moisturizing efficacy only can perform efficacy claim evaluation through literature data research, research data analysis, laboratory test, consumer use test, human trial. We made a summary of laboratory test methods to evaluate cosmetics with moisturizing efficacy.
What is laboratory test?
Laboratory test refers to the test carried out according to required methods and procedures under specific circumstances, including but not limited to animal tests, in vitro tests (including organs in vitro, tissues, cells, microorganisms, physical and chemical tests), etc.
What is moisturizing efficacy?
According to The Classification Rules and Classification Catalogue of Cosmetics, Moisturizing refers to supplementing or strengthening the content of water, oil and other components in the applying position, and that it helps keeping the content of water or reducing the water loss in the applying position.
3 in vitro methods–Efficacy evaluation for cosmetics with moisturizing efficacy
A convenient way to evaluate the effects of cosmetics through detecting their physical properties and specific chemical components.
For example, Weighing method and Physical and Chemical Analysis.
Let’s see what Weighing method is.
Weighing method: Under the condition of fixed temperature and humidity, experiments are carried out by using the interaction between moisturizer and environmental water molecules, and the moisture absorption rate and moisturizing rate are calculated to comprehensively measure the moisturizing effect of moisturizer.
(2)Biological cell method
Biological cell method is a method to test by establishing a cell model of human keratinocytes or fibroblasts cultured in vitro. The influence of moisturizer on skin cells is studied by observing the the condition of cultured cells before and after the contact with the test substance and detecting the protein expression related to moisturizing.
(3)3D reconstruction skin model substitution method
3D reconstruction skin model is an artificial skin tissue model constructed in vitro with 3 dimensional structure. Its construction method is to culture the human skin cells on the special insert culture dish utilizing Tissue Engineering Technology.
 Wang Chunxiao, Zhao Hua. Cosmetic Efficacy Evaluation(Ⅱ)–Scientific support for moisturizing efficacy claims[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2018, 48(2): 67-72.
 He Sibei, Zhang Hongping. Study on moisture retention and moisture absorption of Polygonatum Polysaccharide[J]. Guangdong Chemical Industry, 2017, 44(4): 53-54
Chaudhuri R k, Bojanowski K. Improvement of hydration and epidermal barrier function in human skin by a novel compound isosorbide dicaprylate [J]. Int. J. Cosmeti. Sci., 2017, 39(5):518-526.
Zhang Chunxiao, Du Zhenjian, Zhi, etc. Application of 3D artificial skin model in safety and efficacy evaluation of cosmetics[J]. Beijing Daily Chemical, 2014(2):38-40.
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