China's NCI Approval Updates: Chemicals, Peptides, Biotech-derived Actives

Publication date：2025-10-15

From October 1 to 15, 2025, 10 new cosmetic ingredients were notified with the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA).

The technical requirements for the 10 new cosmetic ingredients mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period.

Schizosaccharomyces Pombe Ferment Lysate Filtrate

Schizosaccharomyces pombe is one of the commonly used strains in the fermentation industry. It belongs to the group of non-Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeasts, together with Schizosaccharomyces japonicus and Schizosaccharomyces octosporus, forming the genus Schizosaccharomyces.

According to the official website of SHE'S YEA, a brand under the notifier Shanghai Yuancui Biotechnology, its Hydrolyzed Schizosaccharomyces Extract is rich in amino acids, nucleic acids, vitamins, folic acid, minerals, and other nourishing compounds. It helps form natural moisturizing factors and replenish moisture in keratinocytes. At the same time, it promotes the synthesis of ceramides and collagen, helping to repair the skin barrier and lipid film, maintain skin stability, improve roughness, and alleviate dryness and fine lines.

Elaeagnus Angustifolia Gum Extract

Elaeagnus angustifolia, also known as Russian olive, fragrant willow, or thorny willow, is a deciduous plant species belonging to the family Elaeagnaceae. It is native to northwestern, northern, and northeastern China, and is also distributed across northern Asia, the Middle East, Near East, and Europe. Its bark and leaves contain abundant Elaeagnus gum, which has long been traditionally used by the Uyghur people in Xinjiang for hair washing and care.

Notably, this marks the first new cosmetic ingredient notified under China's regulatory framework by a company from the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. As of the date of publication, companies from 27 provinces and municipalities across China have completed new cosmetic ingredient notifications.

Isosorbide Dicaprylate

Isosorbide Dicaprylate (ISDC), with the molecular formula C₂₂H₃₈O₆ and CAS No. 64896-70-4, is a compound produced through the esterification of isosorbide (a derivative of the naturally occurring sugar alcohol sorbitol) and caprylic acid.

The ester bonds and hydroxyl groups in its molecular structure give ISDC excellent polarity and skin affinity, allowing it to mimic natural sebum. It forms a breathable protective film on the skin’s surface that effectively locks in moisture and reduces transepidermal water loss without clogging pores, thereby providing long-lasting hydration.

Licochalcone A

Glycyrrhiza L. (Licorice) is a traditional Chinese medicinal herb with over 2,000 years of history. It contains various bioactive compounds, including glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid, liquiritin, isoliquiritin, flavonoids, and polysaccharides. More than 150 flavonoids have been identified, among which Licochalcone A stands out for its multiple biological activities. Chemically characterized by an α,β-unsaturated ketone structure with hydroxyl, methoxy, and isopentenyl substitutions, it is known for its excellent skin-protective properties.

The notifier, Beijing Novotel Biotechnology Co., Ltd., is a subsidiary of IMEIK Technology Development Co., Ltd., a leading Chinese medical aesthetics company established in 2004. IMEIK specializes in biomedical materials and has successfully industrialized sodium hyaluronate fillers and facial implant threads. It was listed on the ChiNext Board of the Shenzhen Stock Exchange in September 2020.

This notification was fully supported by ZMUni Compliance Centre, marking the 24th new cosmetic ingredient we have successfully assisted this year.

As a professional service provider specializing in cosmetic compliance, we have successfully facilitated the notification of over 40 new cosmetic ingredients and currently have more than 100 ongoing projects in development or preparation, covering a wide range of application scenarios, ingredient sources, and functional types. For more information about our services, please contact us at info@zmuni.com.