China's NCI Approval Updates: Evonik and L'Oréal Join Forces on a New NCI in China

Publication date：2026-01-23

From January 16 to 23, 2026, 3 new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) have completed notifications with China's National Medical Products Administration (NMPA).

The technical requirements for the 3 NCIs mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period.

Marubi's Fifth NCI Notification

Gynura divaricata (L.) DC., a member of the Gynura genus in the Asteraceae family, is recognized in China as a medicinal and edible plant. It contains a range of bioactive constituents, including polysaccharides, flavonoids, alkaloids, and anthraquinones, and is associated with anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective, and lipid-lowering activities.

In 2010, China's former Ministry of Health (now the National Health Commission) approved artificially cultivated Gynura divaricata (L.) DC. as a novel food ingredient, with its stems and leaves designated for consumption. Marubi’s notification covers an extract derived from the stems and leaves of this plant.

China's First Pearl-Derived Chemical NCI— Supported by ZMUni

Glutamic acid–modified pearl powder is a reaction product of glutamic acid and pearl powder. Pearls are primarily composed of calcium carbonate, along with amino acids and trace elements.

Under the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China(IECIC), pearl is listed only as a mixed substance (e.g. pearl powder), with no pearl-derived chemical substances included. Against this regulatory backdrop, glutamic acid–modified pearl powder represents the first pearl-derived chemical substance to be notified as an NCI, enabling broader application in cosmetic formulations.

Hainan Jingrun Pearl Biotechnology Co., Ltd., founded in 1997, is a national high-tech enterprise specializing in pearl-based cosmetics, health foods, and pearl powder, supported by an integrated value chain spanning cultivation, R&D, and manufacturing.

ZMUni was pleased to support Jingrun Pearl across the entire NCI notification process, from feasibility assessment and application pathway alignment to dossier preparation, culminating in the successful completion of the notification.

Evonik and L'Oréal? A New Copolymer Notified as an NCI in China

The ingredient notified by Evonik, C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate/Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, is listed in the PCPC database with reported functions including binder, emulsion stabilizer, and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent. The functions recorded in PCPC may differ from those declared in the NCI notification, as functional claims are determined based on the specific application and regulatory submission.

Prior to this notification, Evonik had already completed the notification of two other NCIs in China, both of which have entered the three-year safety monitoring period. For those two ingredients, the China responsible person is listed as Evonik Specialty Chemicals (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. By contrast, the current notification identifies L’Oréal (China) Co., Ltd. as the China RP. This difference suggests a potential collaboration between Evonik and L'Oréal for the notification of this ingredient.