China’s NCI Approval Updates: New Notifications Feature Ferment, Botanical, and Peptide

Publication date：2025-09-10

From September 1 to 10, 2025, 3 new cosmetic ingredients were notified with the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA).

The technical requirements for the 3 new cosmetic ingredients mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period.

Camellia Chekiangoleosa

Notification 20250107 was submitted by Forest Cabin, one of the first skincare brands in China to highlight Camellia chekiangoleosa (red camellia) as a key skincare ingredient. Earlier in May, the brand had submitted Notification 20250049 for Camellia chekiangoleosa Seed Oil. The newly notified ingredient is the fermented derivative of the previous one.

Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt Flower Extract

According to the notifier, LAN DIVINE (尚捷优蓝), Coreopsis tinctoria flowers are rich in flavonoids, polyphenols, polysaccharides, and other bioactive compounds. In cosmetics, the extract provides multiple benefits, including hydration, soothing and repair, antioxidant protection, and improved skin elasticity, making it suitable for a wide range of skincare products such as serums, masks, and lotions.

Founded in 2020, LAN DIVINE specializes in the development of new cosmetic ingredients and positions itself as a technology-driven, full-service raw material provider for personal care products. On August 26, the company successfully filed another plant extract (Notification 20250105).

In 2024, the parent company of HBN, a well-known Chinese brand, notified Coreopsis tinctoria flower extract (Notification 20240015), which has since entered the safety monitoring period—indicating that the NCI has already been incorporated into products.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, marketed under Winkey Technology's product line as WKPep® M-synthetic 6, is primarily used for anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, and skin-repair functions. Founded in 2011, Winkey Technology is a national high-tech enterprise specializing in the R&D, production, and application of cosmetic active ingredients, with a portfolio covering both peptide and non-peptide ingredients.

Since 2021, Winkey Technology (including its subsidiaries) has completed 20 new cosmetic ingredient (NCI) notifications, covering 18 distinct ingredients, making it the company with the highest number of NCI notifications in China.

Sources and Trends of NCI Notification:

*Data compiled and charted by ZMUni Compliance Centre

The main sources of new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) are chemical ingredients (including polymers), biotechnology-derived ingredients, and plant-derived ingredients. In the past two years, the latter two categories have shown significant growth in notifications.

Peptides: 39 notifications in total (12.5% of all NCIs). Rapid growth observed, with 19 notifications in 2025 alone—double that of 2024.
Plant-derived: 72 notifications in total (23%). Steady expansion, from 11 in 2023 to 30 in 2024, and already 28 in 2025.

*Note: Data cover the period from 2021 to August 31, 2025, and are based on public information from China NMPA, as well as ingredient details such as molecular formulas, patent descriptions, and publicly available company materials.