| What happened?
Chinese beauty brand WINONA , a subsidiary of Botanee Group, is facing controversy over allegations that it improperly added preservatives to its products. The claims were made by a famous vlogger of product review Wang Hai, who posted a video on his social media platform, "Wang Hai Reviews," accusing WINONA of concealing its use of the preservative phenoxyethanol. The video reported that phenoxyethanol was detected in various batches of the same product purchased from multiple e-commerce platforms, with concentrations ranging from 0.137% to 0.140%.
In response to these allegations, WINONA issued a statement acknowledging the presence of phenoxyethanol, attributing it to its inclusion in composite ingredients. The company stressed that it has complied with regulations by detailing cosmetic ingredients, including phenoxyethanol content, in its application with the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA). It noted that the phenoxyethanol level in all products is 0.125%, below the minimum bacteriostatic concentration and within cosmetic safety standards.
Despite WINONA's clarification, the controversy has sparked concern among consumers and professionals in the cosmetics industry. Following the news, the stock price of Botanee Group, WINONA's parent company, fell to a record low, reflecting market skepticism about the brand's handling of the situation.
| Regulatory Context
Phenoxyethanol is a permitted preservative that complies with regulations set by China NMPA, with a usage history in cosmetics spanning over 40 years. It remains widely used in the industry, including in products for infants and children. Regulations set the maximum allowable concentration of phenoxyethanol in cosmetics at 1.0%, though it is typically added at around 0.4%.
According to Administrative Measures on Cosmetics Labeling in China, any ingredient in cosmetics that is present in a concentration of 0.1% (w/w) or less can be listed under the heading "other trace elements." Industry insiders point out that currently there are no specific laws or regulations requiring the labeling of trace elements of antioxidants, preservatives, stabilizers, or similar substances added to cosmetics, nor is there a clear definition of what constitutes a trace amount.
The current controversy surrounding phenoxyethanol content primarily focuses on whether it exceeds the legal limit of 0.1%. Variations in testing equipment precision can lead to measurement fluctuations, with potential errors of up to 10% or even 20% around the 0.1% benchmark. However, if WINONA were to proactively list phenoxyethanol in its product ingredients, it could effectively prevent consumer confusion and unnecessary controversy.
| Call for Timely Updates and Regulatory Improvements
This incident also highlights the need for regulatory authorities to further clarify labeling requirements for cosmetic ingredients in the future. Regulators should consider whether all ingredients must be explicitly listed or if certain exemptions should be allowed. By updating regulations or issuing supplementary notices, such legal and market disputes could be effectively minimized.
| ZMUni Opinion
Controversies over the addition of trace ingredients are quite common. When brands promote their products as "additive-free" and suitable for sensitive skin, they often create high expectations of purity among consumers. If it is later discovered that ingredients not disclosed in the marketing are present, even if legally permitted, this can easily lead to a "crisis of trust." Therefore, in addition to ensuring product compliance, cosmetic brands must also be mindful of maintaining transparency in their marketing.
