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2024 in Review: Key Cosmetic Regulatory Updates Globally
Publication date:2025-01-10

In 2024, the global cosmetics industry witnessed several significant regulatory updates. These changes have not only impacted the research, development, production, and sales of products but also posed new challenges to companies' export strategies.

 

This article provides a comprehensive overview of key regulatory updates in major global markets for 2024, offering a convenient reference for relevant businesses and industry professionals.

 

I. Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in EU

 

Two New Categories of Cosmetic Products Added

 

On February 20, 2024, the European Commission updated the Manual Of The Working Group On Cosmetic Products (Sub-Group On Borderline Products) On The Scope Of Application Of The Cosmetics Regulation (Ec) No 1223/2009. This update includes adhesives and glues used for items such as artificial nails, false eyelashes, and dental jewelry, as well as magnetic eyeliners, which are now classified under cosmetic product regulations.

 

Revision of Prohibited and Restricted Substances  

 

In 2024, the European Commission issued four regulatory amendments related to cosmetic ingredients, involving several substances such as nanomaterials, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclohexasiloxane (D6), 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC), arbutin, and vitamin A derivatives.

 

Ø On March 14, 2024, Regulation (EU) 2024/858 added several nanomaterials to the prohibited substances list, including styrene/acrylate copolymer (nano), colloidal silver (nano), and colloidal gold (nano). Additionally, hydroxyapatite (nano) was added as a restricted substance. From February 1, 2025, cosmetic products containing these substances or failing to meet restrictions will no longer be allowed on the EU market, with sales prohibited starting November 1, 2025.

 

Ø On April 4, 2024, Regulation (EU) 2024/996 classified 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor (4-MBC) as a prohibited substance and removed it from the list of permitted UV filters. Cosmetics containing 4-MBC will be banned from the market starting May 1, 2025, and sales will be prohibited from May 1, 2026. The amendment also added alpha-arbutin, arbutin, genistein, daidzein, and kojic acid as restricted substances, effective from February 1, 2025, with sales bans starting November 1, 2025 for non-compliant products. Vitamin A derivatives, including retinol, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate, were also restricted, with compliance deadlines set for November 1, 2025 and May 1, 2027 for sales bans.

 

Ø On May 16, 2024, the European Commission officially revised Annex XVII of the Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 - Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), imposing restrictions on the use of cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5), and cyclohexasiloxane (D6) in cosmetics.

  • Effective June 6, 2026: Rinse-off cosmetics containing D6 at concentrations equal to or above 0.1% (w/w) will be prohibited from being placed on the market.

  • Effective June 6, 2027: Leave-on cosmetics containing D4, D5, or D6 at concentrations equal to or above 0.1% (w/w) will also be prohibited.

 

Ø On September 19, 2024, the European Commission issued Regulation (EU) 2024/2462, amending Annex XVII of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (REACH) to include provisions for perfluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA), its salts, and related substances. Effective October 10, 2026, cosmetic products containing these substances must meet the following requirements to be marketed or used in the EU:

  • PFHxA and its salts: The total concentration must be below 25 ppb (25 μg/kg).

  • PFHxA-related substances: The total concentration must be below 1000 ppb (1000 μg/kg).

 

Proposed Ban on New CMR Substances in Cosmetics  

 

On June 24, 2024, the European Commission submitted notification G/TBT/N/EU/1070 to the World Trade Organization (WTO) regarding updates to the prohibited and restricted substances lists in the EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. The revisions are expected to be adopted and enforced by the third quarter of 2025, aligning with changes in Annex VI of the CLP Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008, which identified new  carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR) substances in October 2023.  

 

Key updates include:  

Ø Ban on Diphenyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phosphine oxide (TPO): Removed from the restricted substances list and added to the prohibited substances list.  

Ø Supplementing information for 2-cyano-N-[(ethylamino)carbonyl]-2-(methoxyimino)acetamide.

Ø Addition of 21 CMR substances, including TPO, to the prohibited substances list.

 

II. Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in U.S.

 

MoCRA Officially Takes Effect

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) introduced the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) in 2022, mandating that cosmetics companies register their facilities and list their products. This regulation officially takes effect on July 1, 2024.

 

Under MoCRA's requirements, starting December 29, 2024, cosmetic product labels must include contact information for adverse event reporting to enable consumers to report any negative reactions. Additionally, cosmetic packaging must list fragrance allergens, although the FDA has not yet released specific regulations concerning fragrance allergens.

 

FDA Launches SPL Xforms for Facility Registration and Product Listing

 

On January 8, 2024, the U.S. FDA announced the release of SPL Xforms, a structured product labeling (SPL) tool for cosmetic facility registration and product listing in compliance with the MoCRA. Additionally, the FDA introduced FDA 5066 and FDA 5067 forms as supplementary submission tools for providing cosmetic facility registration and product listing information to the FDA.

 

FDA Updates Guidance for Industry on Registration and Listing of Cosmetic Product Facilities and Products

 

On December 11, 2024 , the U.S. FDA issued a notice updating the Guidance for Industry on Registration and Listing of Cosmetic Product Facilities and Products. The update finalized FAQs 1-19 in Appendix B. Additionally, three new FAQs (20-22) have been added, and public comments are being solicited until January 13, 2025.

 

Updates in State of Washington

 

On March 15, 2024, Washington Governor signed HB 1097, banning the sale of cosmetics developed or manufactured using animal testing in the state. This legislation came into effect on January 1, 2025, with violators facing fines up to $5,000 per violation.

 

Additionally, on May 15, 2023, the Governor signed the Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act (TFCA), which took effect on January 1, 2025. The law prohibits the production, distribution, and sale of cosmetics containing nine specific substances, including triclosan, mercury, and its compounds. Existing products containing these ingredients may continue to be sold until January 1, 2026.

 

 

III. Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in ASEAN

 

Cosmetic Ingredient List Updates

 

In 2024, ASEAN continues to update the ASEAN Cosmetics Directive (ACD)'s ingredient annex, with individual member countries updating their own cosmetic ingredient lists based on ACD. Key updates include:

 

Ø Thailand has updated its requirements for the use of titanium dioxide in cosmetics.

Ø Malaysia has revised its list of restricted ingredients, adding four substances: Salicylic Acid, Pyrithione Zinc, Ammonium Silver Zinc Aluminum Silicate, and Acid Yellow 3.

Ø Indonesia issued Regulation No. 16 of 2024, concerning the limits for cosmetic contaminants, which include requirements for microbial content, heavy metals, and substances such as dioxane.

 

Cosmetic Advertising Law Revisions

 

ØVietnam: On September 18, 2024, Vietnam issued a comprehensive advertising decree with specific regulations for cosmetic advertisements, including the following key requirements:

  • Mandatory Information: Cosmetic advertisements must include the product name, features, uses, the name and address of the organization or individual responsible for marketing, and regulatory warnings.

  • Prohibited Claims: It is prohibited to mislead consumers by advertising cosmetics as medicines.

  • Media Advertising: Audio-visual or print media advertisements must clearly state the cosmetic's name, features, uses, and regulatory warnings.

  • Approval Process: Cosmetic advertisements must be approved by the relevant national authority before they can be broadcast.

 

Ø Thailand: On September 25, 2024, Thailand revised its Cosmetic Advertising Manual, which outlines principles for cosmetic advertising, provides examples of non-compliant ads, and specifies acceptable and prohibited claims for different types of products. The revision also includes details on penalties for non-compliance.

 

Indonesia Cosmetics Regulations Updates

 

Ø Mandatory Halal Certification: On October 17, 2024, Indonesia officially issued the regulation for Halal Product Assurance (GR 42/2024). Starting October 17, 2026, all cosmetics entering Indonesia must have Halal certification. This regulation aims to meet the demands of Muslim consumers and ensure religious compliance. Additionally, if the product's ingredients and production process remain unchanged, Halal certificates issued by the Indonesian Halal Certification Agency (BPJPH) will be valid indefinitely, replacing the previous requirement for renewal every four years. On March 24, 2024, BPJPH emphasized that products containing non-Halal ingredients or materials are exempt from Halal certification but must clearly label the product as non-Halal, such as including text or images of pork for products containing pork.

Ø Online Sales Regulations: On January 22, 2024, Indonesia released the second edition of the regulations governing the online sale of drugs and food, prohibiting the online sale of skincare products with more than 10% α-hydroxy acid, teeth whitening products with hydrogen peroxide content or release exceeding 6%, and repackaged products. On August 5, 2024, Indonesia issued an updated version of the regulations for online sales of drugs (including cosmetics) and food. The new regulations set standards for online sales and require cosmetics sold online to have a notification number.

 

IV. Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in Taiwan, China

 

Exosome Product Management Update

On March 21, 2024, Taiwan's Ministry of Health and Welfare issued new regulations titled Required Documents for the Review of the Use of Exosomes Derived from Human Cells in Cosmetics. This update revised the List of Prohibited Cosmetic Ingredients by adding exosomes from human cells, tissues, or human-derived products that require approval from the competent authority. Exosomes that have passed review are no longer subject to this restriction. The review process requires documentation including the donor's qualifications, preparation process, test reports, stability, safety tests, and absorption, distribution, metabolism, and excretion (ADME) data. The new regulation is effective immediately.

 

Cancellation of Cosmetics Classification Management

Starting July 1, 2024, Taiwan will no longer classify cosmetics, moving to a unified cosmetics management system. All cosmetics, except for solid handmade soaps produced in non-registered manufacturing sites, will be required to undergo product registration. The new system will be implemented in three phases, starting with the requirement for cosmetic products with ingredients listed in the official announcement or ingredients recognized by the EU, US, and Japan for specific uses such as sunscreens, hair dyes, perms, deodorants, or home-use teeth whitening products. These products must comply with Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) and submit Product Information Files (PIF), with this phase beginning on July 1, 2024.

 

Cosmetic Ingredient List Update

Starting July 1, 2024, Taiwan's Food and Drug Administration (TFDA) will officially abolish the Guidelines for the Use and Limits of Antibacterial Ingredients in Cosmetics and the List of Ingredients for Specific Uses in Cosmetics. A new List of Restrictions on Sunscreen Ingredients will be introduced, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Use Restriction List will be updated. Taiwan's updated cosmetic ingredient list now includes five categories: Prohibited Ingredients, Ingredients Use Restrictions, Color Additive Restrictions, Preservative Ingredients Use Restrictions, and Sunscreen Ingredients Use Restrictions.

Teeth Whitening Toothpaste Regulation

On November 12, 2024, the Taiwan Ministry of Health and Welfare issued a notice revising the Cosmetics Scope and Categories List to include teeth whitening toothpaste in cosmetic regulations. This revision will be effective July 1, 2026.

 

 

V. Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in Australia and New Zealand

 

Revision of Cosmetic Products Group Standard 2020

In January 2024, New Zealand approved amendments to the Cosmetic Products Group Standard 2020, expanding the scope of its applicability and updating the list of approved ingredients. The Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) announced that, starting December 31, 2026, there will be a phased ban on the use of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) in cosmetics.

 

29 Chemicals were added to the Australian Industrial Chemicals List (AIIC) in 2024.

 

Toxic Substances Standard and Cosmetic Ingredients

 

On April 3, 2024, the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) initiated a public consultation on temporary decisions regarding 14 substances listed in the Toxic Substances Standard. This standard classifies substances used in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and other products based on their potential risks and benefits. Three substances under review for cosmetic use include: Methenamine (Urotropine), Adrenaline and Benzoic acid.

 

Sunscreen Products

 

On June 7, 2024, the Australian Federal Register published F2024L00657, which approved amendments to sunscreen regulations. The updated regulations established the AS/NZS 2604:2021 Standard for Sunscreen Products, outlining the assessment and classification processes for sunscreens in Australia and New Zealand.

 

Release of the 3rd Edition of the Industrial Chemicals Classification Guidelines

 

On August 27, 2024, the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) announced the release of the 3rd Edition of the Industrial Chemicals Classification Guidelines, effective from September 24, 2024. The updated guide added nearly 600 new entries to the high-hazard chemicals classification list and, for the first time, incorporated the European Commission's Endocrine Disruptor List (List I) as a reference.

 

 

VI. Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in Canada

 

Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist Update (May 2024)

 

In May 2024, Canada made significant updates to its Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist, which includes changes to the list of prohibited and restricted substances, as well as updates to usage requirements for certain ingredients. The key updates are as follows:

 

Ø Newly banned substance: Basic Green 4  

Ø Newly restricted substances: Benzophenone, p-Chloro-m-Cresol, Solvent Violet 13

Ø Revised restrictions on five items:

  1. Secondary Dialkanolamines and their salts: This entry has been updated to include secondary alkyl and alkanolamines and their salts. These substances share similar potential effects and can act as precursors to carcinogenic nitrosamines.

  2. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs): This category now includes polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) with α-hydroxy groups and biosourced acids and their salts. They meet the chemical definition of AHAs, and there is insufficient evidence to support that PHAs are less likely to cause irritation or photosensitivity than other AHAs. Additionally, the maximum allowed concentration for consumer-use products has been increased from 10% to 18%. Other revisions include updated warnings, cautionary statements, and additional product-specific safety instructions.

  3. Hydroquinone: The scope of permitted nail products has been expanded, including those intended for consumer use, and the maximum allowable concentration has been increased. A combined limit has been introduced for hydroquinone and p-hydroxybenzoic ether or p-benzoquinone when used together in nail products.

  4. p-Hydroxyanisole: A combined limit has been introduced for p-hydroxybenzoic ether and hydroquinone when used together in nail products.

  5. Talc: The revisions aim to reduce the chronic inhalation risk of talc in cosmetics that may cause non-cancerous lung effects (e.g., inflammation or fibrosis) and ovarian cancer from genital exposure to intact ovarian populations. Warnings related to acute inhalation risks have been adjusted, including for all loose powder products.

 

Cosmetic Regulation Amendment Update

 

On October 9, 2024, the amendments to Canada's Cosmetic Regulations officially came into effect. The main updates include:  

 

Ø Updated Cosmetic Notification Requirements: Effective immediately from October 9, 2024.  

Ø Fragrance Allergen Labeling Requirements: For leave-on products, if the fragrance allergen exceeds 0.001%, or for rinse-off products, if it exceeds 0.01%, it must be listed in the ingredient list.  

  • 24 Fragrance Allergens: All new and existing products must label these allergens starting April 12, 2026.  

  • 81 Fragrance Allergens: For new products, labeling must begin by August 1, 2026; For existing products, labeling must begin by August 1, 2028. The list of 81 fragrance allergens required for labeling aligns with the EU Cosmetics Regulation.

 

VII. Global Attention: Progress on Talc Hazard Classification

 

On November 22, 2021, the Netherlands, a European Union member state, submitted a proposal to classify talc as a Category 2 carcinogen (Carc.2) and a Substance with Specific Target Organ Toxicity — Repeated Exposure 1 (STOT RE1).

 

On July 5, 2024, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), under the World Health Organization (WHO), released its carcinogenicity assessment of talc, classifying it as Group 2A carcinogen, which indicates "probably carcinogenic to humans."

 

On September 26, 2024, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) reviewed extensive talc research data and concluded that there is sufficient evidence that exposure to talc could cause cancer. This conclusion was based on limited animal study data (female rats exposed to inhaled talc developed lung tumors) and human study data (women who used talc in the genital/ perineal area experienced ovarian tumors). The committee ultimately adopted the opinion for coordinated classification and labeling of talc, recommending the following classifications:

  • Carc. 1B, H350 (May cause cancer)

  • STOT RE 1, H372 (Causes damage to lungs through prolonged or repeated exposure via inhalation)

 

 

Reflecting on 2024, Anticipating 2025

 

In 2024, global regulatory changes have centered around the following areas: chemical substance bans and restrictions, labeling requirements (especially fragrance allergens), halal certification, product registration and notification, as well as sustainability and environmental protection.

 

In the new year, ZMUni Compliance Centre advises businesses to stay well-informed about the regulatory developments in the target export countries or regions. Ensuring compliance before products enter the market can help mitigate economic and brand reputation losses due to issues like product recalls or destruction caused by non-compliance.

 

*This article is based on our understanding of the 2024 updates to global cosmetics-related regulations and policies, intended for learning and reference purposes. any inaccuracies or omissions are found, we welcome your feedback and suggestions. Thank you for your attention and support.

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