With the release of the Several Provisions on Supporting Cosmetic Ingredient Innovation in February 2025, China's new cosmetic ingredient (NCI) application has accelerated, more companies are submitting NCI notifications, and the number of successfully filed ingredients entering the public announcement stage continues to grow.

 

To help overseas companies stay up to date with cosmetic ingredient trends in China, ZMUni Compliance Centre will publish a regular series on NCI Approvals. We hope this provides valuable insights for ingredient suppliers and brands looking to enter the Chinese market.

From March 11 to 14, 2025, 4 new cosmetic ingredients were notified with the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA). They include:

The technical requirements for the 4 new cosmetic ingredients mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the monitoring period.

Salidroside

Salidroside, is a glycoside of tyrosol found in the plant Rhodiola rosea, with the chemical name 2-(4-hydroxyphenyl) ethyl-β-D-glucopyranoside. In China's Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients (IECIC)(2021 Edition), several Rhodiola-related ingredients are listed as plant extracts, including Rhodiola rosea extract, Rhodiola rosea root extract, Rhodiola crenulata root extract, Sedum rosea root extract and etc.

Rhodiola extract has a long history of use in health supplements, both in China and internationally, primarily for alleviating altitude sickness and reducing fatigue. In the cosmetics sector, current research explores its potential benefits, including synergistic whitening effects, UV protection, and antioxidant properties. As the primary active compound in Rhodiola extract, salidroside may offer stronger efficacy and greater stability when used in cosmetics, making it a promising ingredient for future formulations.

Rhodiola extract has been incorporated into skincare products for years. A notable example is Inoherb's Rhodiola skincare line, which launched around 2016 and remains one of China's most recognized Rhodiola-based cosmetic lines.

  *Source: Tmall

Camellia chrysantha Extract

Camellia chrysantha belongs to the Camellia genus of the Theaceae family and is known as the golden camellia for its distinctive yellow blossoms. It is found in China (endemic in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region in southern China) and Vietnam. Traditionally used in Zhuang ethnic medicine in China, Golden Camellia is known for its heat-clearing, detoxifying, diuretic, and anti-swelling properties. Recent studies on its chemical composition have identified compounds such as β-sitosterol, protocatechuic acid, quercetin and its glucosides, and rutin, indicating its antioxidant activity.  

Wild Golden Camellia is listed in Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) and China's National List of Key Protected Wild Plants. In May 2010, cultivated Camellia chrysantha (with leaves as the edible part) was approved by China's Ministry of Health as a novel food.  

As of now, CAMELLIA CHRYSANTHA Flower Extract and CAMELLIA CHRYSANTHA Leaf Extract have been filed for twice both, showing a great potential in cosmetics.

It is also worth noting that many cosmetic products already feature ingredients from camellia plants. The most famous example is Chanel's Camellia skincare line, which incorporates camellia extracts. In China, Forest Cabin, a well-known essential oil brand, has also made camellia oil one of its signature products.

 *Source: Tmall

Pyrroloquinoline Quinone Disodium Salt

Pyrroloquinoline quinone (PQQ) disodium salt, a redox co-factor, is an anionic, redox-cycling orthoquinone. Present in both animals and plants, PQQ is an essential nutrient for mammals and plays a crucial role in immune function. This compound is remarkably effective at carrying out redox reactions, capable of performing thirty to five thousand times more cycles than regular Vitamin C.

In the food industry, PQQ is recognized as a "Generally Recognized As Safe" (GRAS) substance in the United States, allowing its use as an ingredient in energy drinks, sports beverages, and electrolyte drinks. In the European Union, PQQ has been approved as a novel food for use in food supplements for the general adult population, excluding pregnant and lactating women. Similarly, in China, both biofermentation and chemical synthesis methods for producing PQQ have been approved by the National Health Commission as new food ingredients.

Compared to its use in the food industry, PQQ's application in cosmetics has been somewhat limited. However, PQQ disodium salt have been filed for five times as new cosmetic ingredients in China  by different filers, with three already entering the safety monitoring periods, bringing them closer to safe use. More PQQ-containing cosmetics are expected to be launched in China in the future.  

To stay updated on the latest trends and developments in China's cosmetic ingredient landscape, be sure to follow ZMUni's upcoming series of articles. We'll continue to provide insights into new ingredient registration and notifications, regulatory changes, and market trends to help you navigate the evolving Chinese market.