Since its launch in March, our Approval Updates on China NCI newsletter has published 30 issues. We hope these updates have offered readers practical insights and a clearer view of China's cosmetic ingredient landscape. Thank you for your interest and support throughout the year. We look forward to bringing you more timely and insightful content in 2026. Wishing you a happy and healthy New Year!
From December 24 to 31, 2025, 5 new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) have completed notifications with China's National Medical Products Administration (NMPA).
The technical requirements for the 5 NCIs mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period.
Fomes officinalis is a perennial, large medicinal fungus mainly found in mountainous regions of Xinjiang, China. It is chemically rich, with key active constituents including triterpenoids, sesquiterpenoids, polysaccharides, and linear alkanes. This ingredient is produced using a fermentation process based on naturally sourced Fomes officinalis and Lactococcus lactis, reducing reliance on chemically synthesized materials and aligning with green and sustainable development principles.
Simpcare (Xiamen) Biotechnology Co., Ltd., established in 2023, is a subsidiary of Nord Tracing (Guangzhou) Biotechnology Co., Ltd. The parent company, founded in 2019, focuses on cosmetics research and testing and operates the natural skincare brand Simpcare. Since 2021, Simpcare has completed a total of three notifications for NCIs.
*Related product line; image source: Simpcare website.
Naematelia aurantialba is a prized edible mushroom native to Yunnan and endemic to China's Himalayan and Hengduan Mountain regions. It is rich in protein, carbohydrates, more than 20 amino acids, as well as a wide range of minerals and vitamins.
This notification represents the seventh public disclosure related to extracts derived from the fruiting body of Naematelia aurantialba.
Notification 20250167 covers a fermented lysate filtrate derived from Camellia chekiangoleosa through fermentation with Lachancea kluyveri, submitted by Forest Cabin—one of the first skincare brands in China to spotlight Camellia chekiangoleosa (red camellia) as a core ingredient. Earlier this year, the brand submitted Notification 20250049 for Camellia chekiangoleosa seed oil and Notification 20250107 for another red camellia–related fermented ingredient.
According to a patent filed by Forest Cabin, the Lachancea kluyveri strain significantly enhances the fermentation of red camellia flowers and leaves. The resulting ferment contains bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, polyphenols, and free amino acids, as well as lipid components including ceramides, and is reported to deliver multiple benefits, including anti-glycation, skin repair, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects.
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (SMCT) is a mild, amino acid–based anionic surfactant derived from natural coconut fatty acids and taurine. It offers effective cleansing, foaming, and emulsifying properties, while remaining low-irritating and gentle on the skin. SMCT is widely used in shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers, and other personal care and household cleaning products, and is recognized as an environmentally friendly, sulfate-free alternative.
Great Chemicals commenced operations in 2007 and focuses on the research, production, and commercialization of high-quality, safe, and mild surfactants, with a particular emphasis on amino acid–based surfactants.
Clinacanthus nutans is a plant species of the genus Clinacanthus in the Acanthaceae family and is recognized as both a medicinal and edible plant. In China, it is distributed across Yunnan, Guangxi, Guangdong, and Hainan. According to publicly available information, Clinacanthus nutans contains compounds including flavonoid C-glycosides, lupeol, and glycoproteins, and is reported to exhibit notable anti-cancer activity.
Wenzhou Gumor Biotechnology Co., Ltd., established in 2015, is a provincial-level technology-based SME specializing in the research, development, and production of traditional Chinese medicine extracts and cosmetic ingredients. The company focuses on the application of herbal extraction and biofermentation technologies in cosmetics. With this latest notification, Gumor has completed notifications for a total of three NCIs.
Looking back at 2025, the number of notified NCIs increased sharply compared with last year, reflecting strong momentum in China's cosmetic ingredient innovation. A detailed 2025 Recap will be published this January—stay tuned and follow ZMUni on LinkedIn for the full analysis and key highlights.
