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Regulatory Updates

Monthly Collection: China and International Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in October 2023
Publication date:2023-11-04

China Cosmetics Regulatory Updates

New Cosmetics Ingredients

In October 2023, the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) approved a total of 8 new cosmetic ingredients for filing. The specific information is as follows:

  1. Urolithin A (INCI name: Urolithin A): Submitted by Amazentis SA, a Swiss company. The intended use of this ingredient is as an anti-wrinkle agent for skincare cosmetics, excluding spray products. The maximum allowable concentration when used in cosmetics is: a maximum of 1% in the formulation, with a minimum effective amount of 0.50%.
  2. Cestrum Latifolium Leaf Extract (INCI name: Cestrum Latifolium Leaf Extract): Submitted by BASF (China) Co., Ltd. The intended use of this ingredient is as a skin protectant for various dermal cosmetics (excluding spray products). The recommended addition amount in cosmetics is less than or equal to 2%.
  3. Bakuchio (INCI name: Bakuchio): Submitted by Croda Inc., a US company. The intended use of this ingredient is as a skin protectant, sensory agent, moisturizer, and antioxidant. It can be used in eye, hand, neck, and lip products. The safe usage limit is 2%.
  4. Donkey-hide Gelatin Powder: Submitted by Dong-E-E-Jiao Co., Ltd. The intended use of this ingredient is as an anti-wrinkle agent and moisturizer for various dermal cosmetics. The safe usage amount is <62.0%.
  5. Vitamin K2: Submitted by Nanjing Shengde Baitai Biotechnology Co., Ltd. The intended use of this ingredient is as a skin protectant and antioxidant for various cosmetics (excluding spray and loose powder products).
  6. Acetyl Octapeptide-1: Submitted by Changzhou Zhitai Bioscience and Technology Co., Ltd. The intended use of this ingredient is as a skin protectant for various cosmetics, excluding lip, oral, and spray products. The maximum allowable concentration when used in cosmetics is ≤0.05%.
  7. Black Ginseng Extract: Submitted by Shuiyang Co., Ltd. The intended use of this ingredient is as an anti-wrinkle agent and skin protectant for various cosmetics, excluding spray or aerosol products. The safe usage amount is 2%.
  8. Hydroxy-α-sanshool: Submitted by Sichuan Shengjia Technology Co., Ltd. The intended use of this ingredient is as a skin protectant and antioxidant. It can be used in various cosmetics, excluding spray and loose powder products.

Regulations & Policies

1. On October 9, 2023, in order to further optimize the business environment for cross-border trade and facilitate trade, China GAC decided to cancel the filing requirements for the origin enterprises of exported goods starting from November 1, 2023. Applicants for certificates of origin can directly apply for the certificates through the international trade "single window," Internet plus customs,  the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) declaration system, and other channels.

2. On October 19, 2023, China NMPA issued the "Administrative Measures for Cosmetic Inspection (Draft for Comments)." According to the draft, cosmetic inspections are categorized into permit inspections, routine inspections, cause-based inspections, and other inspections based on the nature and purpose of the inspection. Cosmetic inspections are further classified into on-site inspections and off-site inspections based on the inspection method. On-site inspections are the primary method of cosmetic inspections. In routine inspections, the scope of the inspected objects should be problem-oriented, with a focus on children's cosmetics, special cosmetics, and cosmetics using newly approved ingredients during the monitoring period. The inspections also prioritize cosmetic manufacturers and e-commerce platform operators with significant cosmetic transaction volumes, taking into account factors such as cosmetic registration and filing, sample testing, adverse reaction monitoring, risk monitoring, complaint handling, case investigation, and public opinion monitoring.

3. On October 8, 2023, the Guangzhou Municipal Administration for Market Regulation released the "FAQ on Filing of Ordinary Cosmetics" (Issue 46), providing partial answers to specific requirements for cosmetic formula filling.

4. On October 16, 2023, the Beijing Cosmetic Evaluation and Inspection Center released the "FAQ on Filing of Ordinary Cosmetics" (Issue 26), providing specific answers to simplified requirements for toothpaste filing.

5. On October 17, 2023, the Beijing Municipal Administration for Market Regulation issued a document highlighting several important points to note in advertisements for children's cosmetics. These include establishing correct promotional guidance, not explicitly or implicitly claiming medical effects, avoiding the use of terms such as "food-grade" or "edible" or any related visuals that may create the misconception of edibility, and refraining from using terms like "genetic technology" or "nanotechnology." Furthermore, advertising should not promote content beyond the efficacy of children's cosmetics.

International Cosmetic Regulatory Updates

1. On October 17, 2023, the Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) issued a notice adding 6 substances, including 3-Phenylcyclohexane, to the industrial chemicals inventory and approving their use as fragrance ingredients in cosmetics.

2. According to the official website of the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) of the United States, the application fee for INCI names will be increased to $1,000 per submission, effective from January 1, 2024. Currently, the application fee for INCI names is $400 per submission. Applications submitted before the end of the year will still be charged at this year's fee rate.

SourcesRegulatory Authorities in Corresponding Countries & Regions. Please refer to official real-time adjustments for information accuracy, particularly regarding relevant data.

ZMUni Compliance Center provides the following regulatory services for global cosmetics companies:

China Cosmetic Compliance Service, including:

  • Cosmetics registration and filing
  • Toothpaste filing
  • Registration and filing of new cosmetic ingredients
  • Safety and efficacy testing for cosmetics
  • Review of cosmetic formulas, labels, and claims

China Cosmetic Importation Service, including:

  • Customs clearance services
  • Company filing services
  • Application for business licenses and permits
  • Application for import permits and species certificates
  • Screening services for endangered ingredients

We can also help with EU, USA, Canada, and ASEAN Cosmetic Compliance services.