ZMUni Compliance Centre

Under China's Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations (CSAR) released in 2020, companies must apply for registration and filing for cosmetic ingredients that are not listed in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC 2021). Adjustments to the usage purpose or safe usage amount of existing cosmetic ingredients also require registration or filing.

New cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) refer to natural or synthetic ingredients used for the first time in cosmetics within China. China mandates registration for NCIs with preservatives, sunscreen, coloring, hair dyeing, and skin-whitening functions, while other NCIs only require filing.

Since implementing the Administrative Measures on Cosmetic Ingredient Registration and Filing Dossiers in 2021, 163 NCIs have been filed, with 104 ingredients currently under monitoring. From the beginning of 2024 until now, 46 NCIs have been filed, compared to 24 during the same period last year, marking an impressive 91.7% increase. The number of filings is expected to continue to proliferate in 2024!

ZMUni Compliance Centre has compiled information on the NCIs filed in the first half of 2024, providing a brief analysis of the types of NCIs, the most popular NCIs, and the filing companies.

Figure 1: List of of NCIs Filed in the first half of 2024

| Source of Filed Ingredients

Among the 46 NCIs filed in the first half of 2024, there are 18 chemical ingredients, 17 plant-based ingredients, 10 biotechnology-derived ingredients, and 1 animal-derived ingredient.

Chemical ingredients remain the most popular among ingredient companies, dominating the market. This preference is largely due to the relatively mature research on chemical ingredients, which generally results in lower filing difficulty and costs.

Conversely, biotechnology-derived and plant-based ingredients have seen substantial growth, signaling a new trend. Chinese plant-based ingredients have recently become a focal point due to policy support, consumer demand, and strategic brand positioning.

| Popular Ingredients

Since 2022, β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) has been filed a total of 10 times, firmly establishing itself as a leading ingredient. In the first half of this year, it has been filed twice by Winkey and Bloomage Biotech.

Bakuchiol is another popular ingredient, with 6 filings since 2022 (one cancellation). It was filed twice in the first half of this year by Yuewei Biotech and Winkey. The American company Sytheon Corporation holds the highest number of filings for this ingredient, with a total of 3.

Notably, in January of this year, Bloomage Biotech received approval for Fucosyllactose (2’-FL), a prominent human milk oligosaccharide (HMO) ingredient. Later in June, Suzhou Yixi followed with its own filing. Previously, 2’-FL was primarily used in the food sector, particularly in infant formulas. Its entry into cosmetics marks an exploration of "cosmetic and food synergy."

| Filing Companies

Since 2021, 106 companies have participated in the filing of new cosmetic ingredients, with 33 companies joining this year alone. Leading the filings in the first half of 2024 is BTN, with 5 NCIs filed; followed by Winkey with 4 filings. Bloomage Biotech, Clariant, and SENCL each have 2 filings.

Notably, there has been a diversification among filing companies over the past six months, with new entrants primarily from agriculture and pharmaceuticals. This cross-industry participation not only advances the development of these companies but also introduces new directions and forms to the types of NCIs. This trend could foster a vibrant and diverse landscape in China’s cosmetic ingredient industry. However, it may also lead to increased competition, driving further innovation and activity in the sector.

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🖥New Cosmetic Ingredients in China: Emerging Trends & Latest Regulatory Updates🖥