Under China's Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations (CSAR) released in 2020, companies must apply for registration and filing for cosmetic ingredients that are not listed in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC 2021). Adjustments to the usage purpose or safe usage amount of existing cosmetic ingredients also require registration or filing.
New cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) refer to natural or synthetic ingredients used for the first time in cosmetics within China. China mandates registration for NCIs with preservatives, sunscreen, coloring, hair dyeing, and skin-whitening functions, while other NCIs only require filing.
Since implementing the Administrative Measures on Cosmetic Ingredient Registration and Filing Dossiers in 2021, 163 NCIs have been filed, with 104 ingredients currently under monitoring. From the beginning of 2024 until now, 46 NCIs have been filed, surpassing the number filed during the same period last year. The number of filings is expected to continue to proliferate in 2024!
Since 2021, ZMUni Compliance Centre has helped dozens of companies complete the filing of various NCIs. In 2024 alone, we assisted nearly ten companies with their filings. Here are some case studies for your reference:
1. Fucoxanthin - Haitai Biotech
Fucoxanthin ("岩藻黄质" in Chinese), a naturally occurring carotenoid, completed the filing on December 27, 2023, with the record number "国妆原备字20230068".
Fucoxanthin shows excellent antioxidant and skin protection properties at low concentrations, with high safety, stable quality, good compatibility, simple production process, and economic benefits, making it widely applicable in cosmetics.
2. Glycine tomentella Root Extract - Dr. Morita
Glycine tomentella Root Extract ("短绒野大豆根提取物" in Chinese) completed the filing on May 24, 2024, with the record number "国妆原备字20240037".
Primarily serving as a skin protectant and antioxidant, this extract was filed as an NCI by the well-known cosmetic company Dr. Morita.
3. Hydroxyectoin - SENCL Biotech
Hydroxyectoin ("羟基四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸" in Chinese) completed the filing on June 18, 2024, with the record number "国妆原备字20240042".
Hydroxyectoin has an additional hydroxyl group compared to Ectoine, which allows it to compensate for the loss of water on the surface of proteins, resulting in a more pronounced moisturizing effect. SENCL Biotech has overcome the challenges of synthetic biology and is now the only company in the world to achieve mass production of this ingredient.
Additionally, ZMUni has assisted with the filing of peptide ingredients, 2’FL, β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN), and others.
ZMUni will continue to leverage our expertise in NCI filing to provide comprehensive consulting services for related companies. If you have any needs related to cosmetics or new cosmetic ingredients, feel free to contact us!
