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From December 10 to 16, 2025, 6 new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) have completed notifications with China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA).
The technical requirements for the 6 new cosmetic ingredients mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period. Notably, three of the six NCIs were notified by overseas companies from Italy, South Korea, and Thailand.
According to Lamberti's official website, C18-22 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, marketed as ESAFLOR® HM 22, is a hydrophobically modified bio-based ingredient with notable emulsifying properties and sensory characteristics. It can be used with other emulsifiers to create a variety of textures in skin and hair care products, providing a rich touch with a light after-feel. Besides aiding emulsification, ESAFLOR® HM 22 acts as a thickener and increases the system’s yield point, offering both stabilizing and suspending functions. It complies with ISO 16128:2016 for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products.
Lamberti is an Italian specialty chemicals company offering innovative and sustainable solutions for personal care, home care, and industrial applications. In addition to Lamberti, another Italian company, Intercos S.p.A., has long been active in NCI notifications in China, with 9 ingredients notified, ranking fourth among all companies, including Chinese enterprises.
Lycium ruthenicum, also known as black goji (黑果枸杞) is a perennial shrub in the Solanaceae family, naturally tolerant to drought and salinity. It is primarily found in northwestern China, with additional distribution in Central Asia, the Caucasus, and Europe. Wild black goji is classified as a national second-level protected plant in China. The dried fruits of black goji can be used as traditional Chinese medicinal material in herbal formulations and are also suitable for everyday consumption, such as brewing tea or infusing in wine, making it a traditional food with both medicinal and dietary uses.
Guangdong Marubi Biotechnology Co., Ltd., founded in 2002, is a leading Chinese skincare company targeting the mid-to-high-end market. Its brand portfolio includes MARUBI, CHUNJI, PASSIONAL LOVER, and Beautiful Law, covering eye care, anti-aging, natural skincare, and color cosmetics categories. Since 2021, Marubi has completed four NCI notifications, covering ingredient types such as plant extracts, peptides, and fermentation-derived ingredients.
*Images source: Marubi official website
Elsholtzia Splendens, also known as Herba Elsholtziae (海州香薷), is an aromatic herb in the Lamiaceae (mint) family traditionally used in East Asian folk medicine for its soothing properties and anti-inflammatory activity. The plant contains flavonoids, phenolic acids and other bioactive compounds that contribute to antioxidant and skin-conditioning effects, making its extract suitable for use in calming and moisturizing cosmetic formulations such as daily moisturizers, masks and after-sun products.
Elsholtzia Splendens Extract is a safe, stable, and versatile plant-derived ingredient developed by SOOY-K Co., Ltd. Founded in 2003 and based in Gyeonggi-do, South Korea, SOOY-K Co., Ltd. specializes in the research and production of cosmetic ingredients. In 2020, the company obtained EFfCI and VEGAN certifications.
In addition, five other South Korean companies have previously completed NCI notifications in China for chemical-based ingredients, although one of these notifications has since been canceled.
Hyaluronic Acid/Polyisopropylacrylamide Copolymer was notified by Nabsolute Co., Ltd., a biotechnology startup based in Bangkok, Thailand, spun off from Chulalongkorn University. The company develops Hy-N™ Technology, a nano-modified biopolymer delivery system that enhances the stability, solubility, and efficacy of active ingredients in cosmetics, nutraceuticals, and pharmaceutical products. Its technology has been scientifically validated and recognized with innovation awards internationally.
Notably, Nabsolute is the first Thai company to complete an NCI notification in China. ZMUni is proud to leverage our extensive experience to support Nabsolute in the NCI notification of this innovative ingredient and to contribute to the ongoing innovation and quality development of China's cosmetics industry.
Dendrobium huoshanense, also known as Mi Hu (米斛), is a Dendrobium species endemic to Huoshan County, Anhui Province, China. It is regarded as the most valuable species among Dendrobium used in traditional Chinese medicine. Owing to its distinctive therapeutic and health-promoting properties, it has been highly esteemed by physicians throughout history and classified as a top-grade medicinal herb. Dendrobium huoshanense is listed as a National Class I Endangered Medicinal Plant in China and is therefore often referred to as the "giant panda of medicinal plants."
Prior to this, ingredients derived from other Dendrobium species, including Dendrobium devonianum and Dendrobium officinale, have also completed NCI notifications.
