To help overseas companies stay up to date with cosmetic ingredient trends in China, ZMUni Compliance Centre will publish a regular series on New Cosmetic Ingredient (NCI) notifications. We hope this provides valuable insights for ingredient suppliers and brands looking to enter the Chinese market.
From April 1st to 10th, 2025, 4 new cosmetic ingredients were notified with the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA). They include:
Ingredient Name in CN&EN |
Notification No. |
Notifier in CN |
乙酰基三肽-30 瓜氨酸 Acetyl Tripeptide 30 Citrulline |
202500031 |
深圳市护家科技有限公司 |
红景天苷 Salidroside |
202500032 |
上海华茂药业有限公司 |
昙花(Epiphyllum oxypetalum)愈伤组织提取物 Epiphyllum Oxypetalum Callus Extract |
202500033 |
杭州拾光欣雅有限公司 |
苦丁茶(ILEX KUDINGCHA)叶提取物 ILEX KUDINGCHA Leaf Extract |
202500034 |
广州袋鼠妈妈科技创新研究有限公司 |
The technical requirements for the 4 new cosmetic ingredients mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period.
Acetyl Tripeptide 30 Citrulline was notified by Shenzhen Huajia Technology Co., Ltd., is the parent company of the brand HBN.
HBN is a Chinese skincare brand known for combining cutting-edge biotechnology with skincare innovation. It focuses on anti-aging and skin-repair products, often incorporating ingredients like peptides, retinol, and plant-based actives. HBN has gained popularity in China for its science-backed formulations and a clean, clinical brand image. It appeals to consumers looking for efficacy-driven skincare.
In September 2024, HBN Bioscience Lab published a study titled Evaluation of the Anti-Aging Potential of Acetyl Tripeptide-30 Citrulline in Cosmetics in the International Journal of Pharmaceutics. According to the paper, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities in skin cells, along with skin-repairing and moisturizing properties, highlighting its potential as an active cosmetic ingredient.
Notification 20250032 marks the second Salidroside filing in less than a month, highlighting active progress in the registration of Rhodiola-derived ingredients. The momentum in this category is notable, and future developments are worth watching. For more on this ingredient, see our previous posts.
According to the Notifier, the efficacy of Epiphyllum Oxypetalum Callus Extract includes regulating key circadian rhythm genes (bmal1b and clock1a), activating mitochondrial metabolism through CoQ10 gene expression, boosting cellular energy release (ATP), and enhancing the skin’s natural nighttime repair capacity. Based on these functions, the extract is well-suited for use in energizing facial mists, blue light protection serums, restorative night creams, and overnight recovery masks.
This ingredient was successfully notified with the support of ZMUni’s NCI team. Drawing on our extensive experience in NCI compliance, ZMUni has helped numerous companies complete the notification of a wide variety of NCIs — including peptides, botanicals, chemical compounds, and biofermented substances. For more success stories, see here.
Kuding tea has a long history in China, with a variety of types that differ by region. ILEX KUDINGCHA is the most traditional and representative variety of this tea in the country.
The notifier's parent company, Kangaroo Mommy Group, owns the well-known maternity and baby skincare brand, Kangaroo Mommy. Renowned for its commitment to natural, safe, and effective ingredients, Kangaroo Mommy offers a broad range of products designed to support the skin health and comfort of both mothers and babies during the sensitive stages of pregnancy and early childhood.
Stay informed on the latest trends and developments in China's cosmetic ingredient landscape by following ZMUni’s upcoming series of articles. We will continue to provide valuable insights into new ingredient registration and notifications, regulatory changes, and market trends to help you navigate the evolving Chinese market.