To help overseas companies stay up to date with cosmetic ingredient trends in China, ZMUni Compliance Centre will publish a regular series on NCI notifications. We hope this provides valuable insights for ingredient suppliers and brands looking to enter the Chinese market.

From March 17 to 23, 2025, 2 new cosmetic ingredients were notified with the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA). They include:

The technical requirements for the 2 new cosmetic ingredients mentioned above have not been disclosed, and they have not yet entered the safety monitoring period.

Anoectochilus Roxburghii Extract

Anoectochilus roxburghii, or Golden Thread Orchid, is a rare and valuable traditional Chinese medicine, known for its medicinal properties and found in southern China, Japan, Thailand, Laos, and other regions. Rich in active compounds like Kinsenoside, polysaccharides, and flavonoids, it offers antibacterial, soothing, moisturizing, antioxidant, and anti-aging benefits. Beyond traditional medicine, it is increasingly used in cosmetics and food products for its unique health and beauty benefits.

Up to now, Anoectochilus roxburghii extract has been notified four times by different companies. Pientzehuang Cosmetics ("片仔癀" in Chinese) is the first notifier and has already incorporated this ingredient into its cosmetics, including one repair lotion and two facial masks.

Pientzehuang Cosmetics was founded in March 2002, its predecessor began exploring the cosmetics industry in the 1980s. During that time, the company developed and launched signature products such as Queen Pearl Cream and Pearl Paste, which became highly popular with consumers and were celebrated as "premium beauty products." In recent years, the company has focused on product innovation and brand enhancement. Drawing on Pientzehuang’s centuries-old heritage in traditional Chinese medicine and herbal culture, it has successfully integrated these traditions into its cosmetics, specializing in key functions such as spot removal, whitening, and anti-wrinkle care, leading to rapid growth. 

 *Source: Tmall

Polyaspartic acid chelated with zinc

As mentioned in the notifier's technical patent documents, zinc is an essential trace element that plays a key role in growth and development and is particularly effective in treating acne. It reduces inflammation, stabilizes cellular membranes, provides antioxidant benefits, and enhances antibiotic absorption while blocking UV rays. Polyaspartic acid and its sodium salt excel in moisturizing, hydrating the skin, and improving its elasticity and plumpness.

When chelated with zinc, polyaspartic acid not only enhances hydration but also adds anti-inflammatory and whitening effects. The stability of the chelation bond ensures longer-lasting results compared to elemental zinc or zinc salts.

As of March 24, 2025, one NCI has entered the registration announcement, and 235 NCIs have entered the filing/notification announcement since 2021. In 2025, 28 ingredients have already passed the notification process, 7 of which are from overseas.

Stay informed on the latest trends and developments in China's cosmetic ingredient landscape by following ZMUni’s upcoming series of articles. We will continue to provide valuable insights into new ingredient registration and notifications, regulatory changes, and market trends to help you navigate the evolving Chinese market.