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Analysis on the Filing of New Cosmetic Ingredients in China in Q1 of 2024
Publication date:2024-04-08

According to data from the official website of the National Medical Products Administration(NMPA), 23 new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) were filed in the first quarter of 2024, showing a significant increase compared to the same period in 2023.

 

Figure 1: Overview

Year

Number of Filing in Q1

Year-on-Year Increase

2022

7

-

2023

9

+28.6%

2024

23

+155.6%

 

Regarding the country or region of the filers, among the 23 NCIs that have been successfully filed, 16 originate from domestic enterprises, accounting for approximately 70%.

 

Figure 2: List of Filers(China)in 2024 Q1

Filing No.

Ingredient Name in CN&EN

Filer

Country/Region

20240001

吡哆素三-己基癸酸酯

(Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate)

上海克琴

China

20240002

东北刺参(OPLOPANAX ELATUS)不定根提取物

广东南芯医疗

China

20240003

二羟基苯乙醇(羟基酪醇)

(Hydroxytyrosol)

杭州唯铂莱

China

20240004

β-烟酰胺单核苷酸(Nicotinamide mononucleotide)

深圳维琪

China

20240005

β-丙氨酰羟脯氨酰二氨基丁酸苄胺

深圳维琪

China

20240006

岩藻糖基乳糖(Fucosyllactose)

华熙生物

China

20240009

塔凯榛桐(CARYODENDRON ORINOCENSE)籽油

(Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil)

仙婷(广州)

China

202400010

短莛飞蓬(ERIGERON BREVISCAPUS)提取物

(Erigeron Breviscapus Extract)

贝泰妮

China

202400011

荔枝草(SALVIA PLEBEIA)提取物

(Salvia Plebeia Extract)

贝泰妮

China

202400013

β-烟酰胺单核苷酸

(Nicotinamide mononucleotide)

华熙生物

China

202400015

两色金鸡菊(COREOPSIS TINCTORIA)花提取物

(Coreopsis Tinctoria Flower Extract)

深圳护家

China

202400016

三(聚甘油-3/月桂基)氢化三聚亚油酸酯

禾大化学品

China

202400017

明胶交联聚合物(Gelatin Crosspolymer)

深圳华诺生物

China

202400018

南方红豆杉(TAXUS WALLICHIANA MAIREI)籽油

贝泰妮

China

202400019

南方红豆杉(TAXUS WALLICHIANA MAIREI)嫩枝提取物

贝泰妮

China

202400020

补骨脂酚(Bakuchiol)

广东粤微

China

 

Figure 3: List of Filers(Overseas)in 2024 Q1

Filing No.

Ingredient Name in CN&EN

Filer

Country/Region

20240007

聚甘油-3 硬脂酸酯/癸二酸酯交联聚合物(Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate)

Evonik Operations GmbH

German

20240008

双-(异硬脂酰/油酰异丙基)二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐(Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoylisipropyl)Dimonium Methosulfate)

Evonik Operations GmbH

German

202400023

山梨醇聚醚-230 五硬脂酸酯

(Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate)

Applechem, Inc.

The United States

202400021

刺云实(CAESALPINIA SPINOSA)胶/AMPS铵交联聚合物

Clariant International Ltd.

Switzerland

202400022

聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-11

(Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11)

Clariant International Ltd.

Switzerland

202400012

双羟基乙基PPG/PEG-7/4二氰甲基噻吩偶氮甲苯胺三乙氧基硅丙基氨基甲酸酯

Intercos S.p.A.

Italy

202400014

双-1,4(三乙氧基硅丙基氨基甲酰基聚(己二酸乙二醇酯)丙胺基)蒽醌(Bis-1,4(Triethoxysilylpropylcarbamoyl Poly(Diglycol Adipate) Propylamino) Anthraquinone)

Intercos S.p.A.

Italy

 

Regarding the types of enterprises filing, the 23 NCIs involve 15 enterprises. Apart from Shenzhen HuJia and Botanee Group, both cosmetics enterprises, the rest are ingredients enterprises.

 

Figure 4: List of Enterprises and Corresponding Quantities of NCIs Filing in 2024 Q1

Name of Enterprise

Quantities

贝泰妮

4

华熙生物

2

维琪科技

2

Clariant International Ltd.

2

Intercos S.p.A.

2

Evonik Operations GmbH

2

上海克琴、禾大化学品、Applechem, Inc.、仙婷(广州)、广东粤微、深圳华诺、杭州唯铂莱、广东南芯医疗、深圳护家

1

 

Popular Category of Filed NCIs in Q1 of 2024

 

In the first quarter of 2024, 7 newly filed NCIs derived from plant sources indicate an accelerating trend. Among them, ingredients such as Taxus wallichiana Mairei seed oil, Taxus wallichiana Mairei shoot extract, and Oplopanax elatus root extract are all characteristic Chinese botanical ingredients. Regulations and Institutions in China encourage and support the research and development of Cosmetics and NCIs by applying modern science and technology, integrating traditional advantages and unique botanical resources. The number of newly filed plant-based cosmetic ingredients is expected to continue to increase in 2024.

 

Popular NCIS Filed in Q1 of 2024

 

In the first quarter of 2024, popular NCIs such as Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) and Bakuchiol were again approved for filing as NCIs. Among them, NMN has filed a total of 10 times, with 2 filings in this quarter, making it the "most frequently filed" NCI; Bakuchiol was filed 5 times in total, with 1 filing in this quarter;β-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide was filed twice, with 1 filing in this quarter; the rest of the NCIs filings in the first quarter were all for the first time, including the currently popular Hydroxytyrosol and Fucosyllactose.

 

Since its initial filing in early 2022, NMN has been gradually filed by 8 enterprises, including Bloomage Biotech and Winkey Technology, attracting attention from ingredient and cosmetic enterprises. NMN is an intrinsic substance in the human body and a precursor for producing NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) in organisms. Some studies suggest that NMN can support energy metabolism, exhibit anti-aging and antioxidant effects, and improve vascular function.

 

Bakuchiol was filed by the American enterprise Sytheon Corporation three times, while two Chinese enterprises each filed it once. Bakuchiol is a natural compound derived from the seeds and fruits of Psoralea corylifolia. Research indicates that Bakuchiol promotes collagen regeneration, inhibits the growth of epidermal pathogenic bacteria such as Propionibacterium acnes, and has preventive effects on acne scars and marks.

 

At the end of the article, ZMUni Compliance Center has compiled relevant information on the NCIs filed this quarter, as recorded by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), including the INCI names, CAS numbers, and intended uses, for the convenience of understanding and learning.

 

Figure 5: List of NCIs Filed in Q1 of 2024-Recorded by PCPC

NCI Name in CN

INCI Name

CAS Number

Reported Functions

吡哆素三-己基癸酸酯

(Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate)

564478-51-9

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Humectant

东北刺参(OPLOPANAX ELATUS)不定根提取物

/

/

/

二羟基苯乙醇(羟基酪醇)

 

Hydroxytyrosol

10597-60-1

Skin Bleaching Agents;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous

β-烟酰胺单核苷酸

Nicotinamide mononucleotide

1094-61-7

Antioxidants

β-丙氨酰羟脯氨酰二氨基丁酸苄胺

/

/

/

岩藻糖基乳糖

Fucosyllactose

41263-94-9

Skin Protectants;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous

聚甘油-3 硬脂酸酯/癸二酸酯交联聚合物

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

37349-34-1 (generic);

26855-43-6;

27321-72-8

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Emollient;

Surfactants - Emulsifying Agents

双-(异硬脂酰/油酰异丙基)二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐

Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate

/

Hair Conditioning Agents;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous

塔凯榛桐(CARYODENDRON ORINOCENSE)籽油

Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil

1453469-52-7

Hair Conditioning Agents;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Emollient

短莛飞蓬(ERIGERON BREVISCAPUS)提取物

Erigeron Breviscapus Extract

/

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous

荔枝草(SALVIA PLEBEIA)提取物

Salvia Plebeia Extract

/

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Humectant

双羟基乙基PPG/PEG-7/4二氰甲基噻吩偶氮甲苯胺三乙氧基硅丙基氨基甲酸酯

/

/

/

β-烟酰胺单核苷酸

Nicotinamide mononucleotide

1094-61-7

Antioxidants

双-1,4(三乙氧基硅丙基氨基甲酰基聚(己二酸乙二醇酯)丙胺基)蒽醌

Bis-1,4(Triethoxysilylpropylcarbamoyl Poly(Diglycol Adipate) Propylamino) Anthraquinone

/

Surfactants

两色金鸡菊(COREOPSIS TINCTORIA)花提取物

Coreopsis Tinctoria Flower Extract

/

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous

三(聚甘油-3/月桂基)氢化三聚亚油酸酯

/

/

/

明胶交联聚合物

Gelatin Crosspolymer

68410-46-8

Film Formers;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous

南方红豆杉(TAXUS WALLICHIANA MAIREI)籽油

/

/

/

南方红豆杉(TAXUS WALLICHIANA MAIREI)嫩枝提取物

/

/

/

补骨脂酚

Bakuchiol

10309-37-2

Antioxidants;

Cosmetic Biocides;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Emollient

刺云实(CAESALPINIA SPINOSA)胶/AMPS铵交联聚合物

/

/

/

聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-11

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11

/

Dispersing Agents - Nonsurfactant;

Emulsion Stabilizers;

Skin-Conditioning Agents - Miscellaneous;

Viscosity Increasing Agents - Aqueous

山梨醇聚醚-230 五硬脂酸酯

Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate

/

Surfactants - Emulsifying Agents;

Viscosity Increasing Agents - Aqueous

 

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