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Monthly Collection: China & International Cosmetic Regulatory Updates in January 2024
Publication date:2024-02-06

China Cosmetic Regulatory Updates

 

New Cosmetics Ingredients

In January 2024, a total of 12 new cosmetic ingredients were filed with the China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) . They include:

Ingredient Name in CN & EN

Filing No.

Filer in CN

吡哆素三-己基癸酸酯 (Pyrethrin III Hexyl Decanoate)

20240001

克琴

东北刺参(OPLOPANAX ELATUS)不定根提取物 (Oplopanax elatus rhizome extract)

20240002

南芯医疗

二羟基苯乙醇 (2-hydroxyphenethyl alcohol)

20240003

唯铂莱

β-烟酰胺单核苷酸 (β-nicotinamide mononucleotide)

20240004

维琪

β-丙氨酰羟脯氨酰二氨基丁酸苄胺 (β-alanyl-L-histidinyl-L-lysine benzyloxy carbamate)

20240005

维琪

岩藻糖基乳糖 (Fucosyl lactose)

20240006

华熙生物

聚甘油-3 硬脂酸酯/癸二酸酯交联聚合物 (Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate/dodecane dioate crosspolymer)

20240007

赢创

双-(异硬脂酰/油酰异丙基)二甲基铵甲基硫酸盐 (Dioctadecyldimethylammonium methylsulfate)

20240008

赢创

塔凯榛桐(CARYODENDRON ORINOCENSE)籽油 (Caryodendron orinocense seed oil)

20240009

仙婷

短莛飞蓬(ERIGERON BREVISCAPUS)提取物 (Erigeron breviscapus extract)

20240010

贝泰妮

荔枝草(SALVIA PLEBEIA)提取物 (Salvia plebeia extract)

20240011

贝泰妮

双羟基乙基PPG/PEG-7/4二氰甲基噻吩偶氮甲苯胺三乙氧基硅丙基氨基甲酸酯 (Bis-Hydroxyethyl/Ppg-7/Peg-4 Dicyanomethylthiophene)

20240012

莹特丽

 

Regulations & Policies

On January 3, 2024, the Beijing Cosmetics Evaluation and Inspection Center addressed common questions regarding the filing of general cosmetics in the 28th Q&A session. The focus was on issues related to primary responsibilities.

On January 9, 2024, the National Medical Products Administration of China issued the supplementary inspection method "Determination of 10 Components, Including Finasteride, in Cosmetics" (BJH202401). This method provides qualitative and quantitative determination techniques for 10 components, including hydroxyflutamide, finasteride, nilutamide, bicalutamide, flutamide, flutamide, cyproterone acetate, cyproterone acetate, dutasteride, and enzalutamide, in various forms of cosmetics such as creams, lotions, liquids (water, oil), gels, wax-based products, and powders.

On January 12, 2024, the China Oral Care Products Industry Association released the "Catalog of Used Toothpaste Ingredients (Draft Version) (Association Edition)." It includes the Chinese names, INCI names/English names, and historical usage amounts of 1,026 toothpaste ingredients.

On January 15, 2024, the General Filing Management System for General Cosmetics (Toothpaste) was updated. The system now includes a section for domestic toothpaste filings, covering seven major filing categories.

On January 15, 2024, the General Office of the State Council issued the "Opinions on Developing the Silver Hair Economy and Enhancing the Well-being of the Elderly," proposing 26 measures. Article 17 in Part IV specifically highlights the development of the anti-aging industry, including further research on skin aging mechanisms and human aging models, advancing genetic technology, regenerative medicine, and laser radiofrequency in the field of anti-aging, promoting the integration of biotechnology and delaying age-related diseases, as well as advancing research and development of cosmetic raw materials and formulation design.

On January 17, 2024, the National Bureau of Statistics released the 2023 annual data for social consumer goods retail sales. The total retail sales of social consumer goods in 2023 amounted to 47,149.5 billion yuan, representing a 7.2% increase compared to the previous year. Among them, the retail sales of cosmetics reached 414.2 billion yuan, reflecting a 5.1% growth compared to the previous year.

 On January 18, 2024, the Guangzhou Administration for Market Regulation released the 53rd Q&A session on the filing of ordinary cosmetics, which focused on defining and categorizing essential oil-related products.

On January 24, 2024, the General Administration of Customs published the list of cosmetics prohibited for import in December 2023. The list included 22 batches of cosmetics, such as La Mer, Nivea Men, and Versace, that were not allowed entry. For instance, the "Amway Artistry Pure White Sea Mud Purifying Body Wash (Vitalizing Hibiscus Fragrance)" was prohibited due to excessive total microbial counts, while the "Nivea Men Strong & Resilient Hair Shampoo (New)" was not permitted due to sensory inspection failure. Additionally, 19 batches of cosmetics from brands like Versace, Jimmy Choo, Mary Kay, and Clio were not allowed for import due to non-compliant labeling.

On January 25, 2024, the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, in conjunction with the Ministry of Commerce and the General Administration of Customs issued the "Notice on Optimizing Import and Export Supervision Measures for Low-Concentration Triethanolamine Mixtures." Effective February 1, 2024, goods with lower concentrations of triethanolamine for import and export will no longer require the Dual-Use Items and Technologies Import and Export License. This policy change applies to various product types, including low-concentration triethanolamine found in non-medical disinfectants, synthetic detergents, cosmetics, and others. Read More here.

 

International Cosmetic Regulatory Updates

In 2023, the European Union's Rapid Alert System for Non-Food Products (RAPEX) issued a total of 1088 notifications concerning cosmetics. Italy had the highest number of notifications with 355 cases, followed by France with 100 cases. Mainland China received 57 notifications, with 43 of them related to perfumes. The most common reason for notification among the reported products was the presence of linalool, which accounted for 1008 cases, followed by 16 cases related to hydroquinone issues.

On December 21, 2023, the European Union's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) released its final opinion on the use of silver zinc zeolite (SZZ) in body sprays and deodorants. Silver ions possess antimicrobial properties and can interact with microbial cell membranes, electron transport systems, nucleic acids, enzymes, and catalyze the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). SCCS concluded that when the recommended concentration is 1%, the maximum safe silver content of silver zinc zeolite (CAS number 130328-20-0) in spray deodorants and powders should be 2.5%.

On January 4, 2024, the Ministry of Health and Welfare of Taiwan issued four announcements regarding cosmetics. These announcements repealed the "Standards for the Use and Limitation of Preservatives in Cosmetics" and the "List of Ingredient Names and Usage Limits for Specific Purpose Cosmetics." They also established the "Table of Restrictions on the Use of Sunscreen Agent Ingredients in Cosmetics" and revised the "Table of Restrictions on the Use of Cosmetic Ingredients." Individuals wishing to provide feedback or suggestions for amendments to the announcements can do so within 60 days from the day of publication.

On January 8, 2024 (local time), the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced the availability of SPL Xforms, a structured product labeling (SPL) authoring tool, for cosmetic establishments to comply with the Modernizing Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) of 2022 regarding registration and product listing. Additionally, on the same day, the FDA announced the availability of FDA Form 5066 and FDA Form 5067 as additional submission tools for cosmetic establishments to provide registration and product listing information to the FDA.

 

Sources: Official regulatory authorities in respective countries/regions.

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